sanya was just what we needed: hot weather and an open schedule.
in truth, sanya isn't much like hawaii at all except for the palm trees lining every street, but if the locals asked me if the two places were similar, i smiled and answered "yes" -- who was i to disillusion them? however, it is beautiful in its own right. it's a part of china that you wouldn't expect, which enabled us to depart from what our life had been in china until that point, but also appreciate china's diversity.
one of the funniest things about sanya is the hoards of russian eurotrash that go there. it's the closest tropical destination to russia, and since russian new year falls around the same time as chinese new year, there were tons of them when we arrived. the russians in sanya were especially trashy, and proved essentially every stereotype and stigma surrounding them to be true (mankinis, vodka guts and the abuse of leopard print, to name a few). there are actually so many russians in sanya that almost every billboard, every menu, every storefront is written only in russian and chinese. as a result, we felt super-foreign, which proved to be hilarious, especially when vendors yelled at us in broken, chinese-accented russian trying to get us to buy fake designer sunglasses.
the beaches in sanya, while not the best in the world, were still a sight for sore eyes after beijing. it was great just to be by the water. an average day for us consisted of lazing around our hostel in the morning, becoming motivated to leave by the promise of brunch at rainbow (a restaurant near the hostel with some greatly-missed and actually legit american food), buying pineapple on a stick for dessert and then heading to the beach to get a little sun and relax. doing nothing actually kept us very busy -- somehow the six days of our stay went by extremely fast.
this trip was the first time i have ever stayed in a hostel, and i absolutely loved it. hostel culture is awesome -- you never know who you will meet, and everyone's story is so interesting.
i was sad to leave the warm weather in sanya, but after 6 days we had our share of beaching it. i was looking forward to returning to hong kong after leaving 10 years ago.
Monday, February 18, 2008
leaving beijing: the trials and tribulations of chinese travel
to put it simply, leaving beijing for vacation after j-term finished was difficult. why? chinese new year travel, for everyone involved, is hell.
let me start with the reminder that china has an insanely large population problem. you can try to imagine how many people are here, but if you haven't been before, it's really not an image you can conjure up in your head. that being said, chinese new year (end of january/beginning of february) is thus the absolute worse time in china to travel. people are either returning home for what might be the only time they can see their family during the year or trying to get away from the crowds of people, which makes travelling nearly impossible.
for february break, my two friends that i traveled with and i decided to first go to sanya in hainan, often called "the hawaii of china" by locals, to experience some warm weather after a bitter cold four weeks in beijing. since traveling by train in china is very cheap, and as were told quite the experience, we decided to book tickets to take a 31-hour train from beijing to haikou, a town in hainan three hours away from sanya, and then take a cab from haiko to sanya.
the first major hurdle in our trip was actually buying train tickets. because there are so many people here, pre-booking tickets online doesn't exist. if you want a ticket, you have to wait for hours in line at a travel agency because tickets for the same trains are sold throughout china at exactly the same time. in our case, our tickets would be sold one night at 7 pm, so we lined up at around 4 pm just so that the woman at the desk could input what we wanted so that when tickets started being sold, she could immediately track down what we wanted, since most tickets sell out within 4-5 minutes. we managed to score tickets, but most of our friends weren't as lucky and were turned away two days in a row empty-handed.
thrilled to have actually gotten tickets and ready to hit the beach, my friends and i went to the train station a few hours in advance to catch our train, since we knew that it would be pure madness. "ren shan, ren hai" (literally "people in the mountains, people in the ocean" -- a chinese phrase to describe the masses of people in a given place) doesn't even begin to describe the crowd there. we pushed and shoved for half an hour, with almost everything we had brought to china for the semester on our backs and in our hands, just to get inside of the station. why? you have to understand that people in china don't wait in line. they have a word for it -- "pai dui" -- but it's absolutely useless. as a man i befriended on a different train (that story to come) explained, communism basically ruined china's manners. no one had anything and had to fight for what little they could get. in a practical context, that means that watching people trying to catch trains looks like everyone is fighting for their life -- but, without fail, they leave time to hack and spit everywhere in the process.
but back to the train. inside the station wasn't much better. one of the most telling images we remembered was one man casually leaping over falling luggage as he rushed to catch a train. it seems like everyone is prepared for chaos here, and rightfully so. when we finally arrived at the area from where our train would depart, we read on the departure screen that our train was delayed a few hours because of snow south of beijing blocking the train from getting through. in china you have to expect delays, so we weren't fazed. however, the problems kept coming. the train we were originally supposed to take couldn't get through at all, and so another train had to fill in. this train, unlike the original one, did not have any beds (we had booked "ying wo" or hard bed tickets). we groaned at the idea of having to spend 30+ hours in a seat, and so did a lot of other people: many started leaving, and announcements were made for ticket refunds. nonetheless, we decided to stick it out -- we didn't really have a choice.
the tell-tale sign that we really should not get on the train was that when the train finally arrived, it was announced that the train could no longer take us to haikou because of all the snow. instead, it would stop in guangzhou, which was still at least 15 hours away by train from haikou. as people began in true chinese fashion to rush the gate, we were faced with the decision whether or not to try our luck in guangzhou, or to book last-minute plane tickets, since we already had hostel reservations in both haikou and sanya that we couldn't get refunded. as much as we wanted to have the "dididaodao" (authentic) chinese train experience, we knew nothing about guangzhou or where we might be able to stay there, and so instead we returned, defeated, to our dorm for one more night. luckily we were able to buy plane tickets for the next morning, and so 8 hours after leaving the train station we boarded a plane for haikou.
as we flew problem-free to haikou and took a taxi to our hostel, we had no idea that people in trains all over china were victims of what turned out to be china's worst snowstorm in 50 years. it was only a few days after we arrived in hainan that we learned of the many people that died from the cold or lack of food. in fact, we would have been stranded 2 hours outside of beijing for 3 days had we taken our train, which still makes me shudder.
as chaotic and exhausting the process of getting to our much-needed tropical vacation was, i learned three important lessons:
1. forget waiting in line until i return to the states
2. backpacking backpacks can get aggressive chinese travelers out of your way, but cause serious back pain
3. go with your gut, even with a $400 price tag
let me start with the reminder that china has an insanely large population problem. you can try to imagine how many people are here, but if you haven't been before, it's really not an image you can conjure up in your head. that being said, chinese new year (end of january/beginning of february) is thus the absolute worse time in china to travel. people are either returning home for what might be the only time they can see their family during the year or trying to get away from the crowds of people, which makes travelling nearly impossible.
for february break, my two friends that i traveled with and i decided to first go to sanya in hainan, often called "the hawaii of china" by locals, to experience some warm weather after a bitter cold four weeks in beijing. since traveling by train in china is very cheap, and as were told quite the experience, we decided to book tickets to take a 31-hour train from beijing to haikou, a town in hainan three hours away from sanya, and then take a cab from haiko to sanya.
the first major hurdle in our trip was actually buying train tickets. because there are so many people here, pre-booking tickets online doesn't exist. if you want a ticket, you have to wait for hours in line at a travel agency because tickets for the same trains are sold throughout china at exactly the same time. in our case, our tickets would be sold one night at 7 pm, so we lined up at around 4 pm just so that the woman at the desk could input what we wanted so that when tickets started being sold, she could immediately track down what we wanted, since most tickets sell out within 4-5 minutes. we managed to score tickets, but most of our friends weren't as lucky and were turned away two days in a row empty-handed.
thrilled to have actually gotten tickets and ready to hit the beach, my friends and i went to the train station a few hours in advance to catch our train, since we knew that it would be pure madness. "ren shan, ren hai" (literally "people in the mountains, people in the ocean" -- a chinese phrase to describe the masses of people in a given place) doesn't even begin to describe the crowd there. we pushed and shoved for half an hour, with almost everything we had brought to china for the semester on our backs and in our hands, just to get inside of the station. why? you have to understand that people in china don't wait in line. they have a word for it -- "pai dui" -- but it's absolutely useless. as a man i befriended on a different train (that story to come) explained, communism basically ruined china's manners. no one had anything and had to fight for what little they could get. in a practical context, that means that watching people trying to catch trains looks like everyone is fighting for their life -- but, without fail, they leave time to hack and spit everywhere in the process.
but back to the train. inside the station wasn't much better. one of the most telling images we remembered was one man casually leaping over falling luggage as he rushed to catch a train. it seems like everyone is prepared for chaos here, and rightfully so. when we finally arrived at the area from where our train would depart, we read on the departure screen that our train was delayed a few hours because of snow south of beijing blocking the train from getting through. in china you have to expect delays, so we weren't fazed. however, the problems kept coming. the train we were originally supposed to take couldn't get through at all, and so another train had to fill in. this train, unlike the original one, did not have any beds (we had booked "ying wo" or hard bed tickets). we groaned at the idea of having to spend 30+ hours in a seat, and so did a lot of other people: many started leaving, and announcements were made for ticket refunds. nonetheless, we decided to stick it out -- we didn't really have a choice.
the tell-tale sign that we really should not get on the train was that when the train finally arrived, it was announced that the train could no longer take us to haikou because of all the snow. instead, it would stop in guangzhou, which was still at least 15 hours away by train from haikou. as people began in true chinese fashion to rush the gate, we were faced with the decision whether or not to try our luck in guangzhou, or to book last-minute plane tickets, since we already had hostel reservations in both haikou and sanya that we couldn't get refunded. as much as we wanted to have the "dididaodao" (authentic) chinese train experience, we knew nothing about guangzhou or where we might be able to stay there, and so instead we returned, defeated, to our dorm for one more night. luckily we were able to buy plane tickets for the next morning, and so 8 hours after leaving the train station we boarded a plane for haikou.
as we flew problem-free to haikou and took a taxi to our hostel, we had no idea that people in trains all over china were victims of what turned out to be china's worst snowstorm in 50 years. it was only a few days after we arrived in hainan that we learned of the many people that died from the cold or lack of food. in fact, we would have been stranded 2 hours outside of beijing for 3 days had we taken our train, which still makes me shudder.
as chaotic and exhausting the process of getting to our much-needed tropical vacation was, i learned three important lessons:
1. forget waiting in line until i return to the states
2. backpacking backpacks can get aggressive chinese travelers out of your way, but cause serious back pain
3. go with your gut, even with a $400 price tag
Monday, January 7, 2008
zai beijing
so, my first post in china. it's going to be a long one.
this is my first time back in asia since i moved back to connecticut from hong kong when i was 11, so i'm really excited to revisit places i went as a child, but also experience a lot more of china and asia in general than i did when i lived around here.
first things first: i got here december 27th in the afternoon, and took the bus with everyone else on the CET beijing j-term program (mostly midd kids) to our school in the xizhimen district, which is really close to the beijing zoo. it's a nice school -- small, but convenient and i like the fujin, or neighborhood, that it's in.
i got sick almost immediately after getting here -- it seems to happen everywhere i go. i had what seemed like the flu for a couple of days which was awful, especially since i couldn't celebrate new years here, but luckily i got well pretty quickly. still have the beijing cough, though -- that never seems to disappear once you get it, thanks to the terrible air quality. i'm just hoping my lungs survive until i get home.
everyone here has a chinese roommate, and i adore mine. she's young (only 18), a freshman in college, loves garfield and is very talkative and bubbly. she's also incredibly caring, as it seems all of the chinese roommates are -- she took such good care of me when i was sick, always watches out for me when we're walking along a busy street, that kind of thing. it's strange because she's the same age as my younger sister, but she's also motherly at the same time.
it's interesting to discuss how americans and chinese both agree and differ on certain issues with her. the other day we were talking about how zhongguo de nianqing ren (young chinese people) view homosexuality these days: she said that the chinese are gradually adopting a more liberal view, which is good to hear. we also talked about relationships, as they are generally viewed a lot more seriously here than in the states. casual dating/hooking up for the most part doesn't really exist; if you're with someone, it's definitely a serious thing.
the food here is delicious! this weekend i ate incredibly well -- it was marvelous. on friday i went with some friends and their roommates to a xinjiang style restaurant. xinjiang is an area of china that is really close to kazakhstan, pakistan (and i think india too), so the food reflects a lot of that influence. we ate a lot of lamb, yogurt, and sesame naan bread, along with a thick noodle dish and some other dishes. it was amazing. on saturday, two of my friends and i went to beijing's most famous peking duck restaurant, quanjude. between the three of us, we ordered one duck, which they sliced for us to roll into pancakes with scallions and plum sauce. it's hands down the richest meat i've ever had, and it is also arguably the most delicious. on sunday i went with a friend to meet up with two midd kids who were studying in hangzhou last semester and had hot pot, or mala tang. for hot pot, they give you a pot with fire under it to heat the food you put into it -- essentially the chinese version of fondue. we chose a curry broth for our base, and ordered tofu, vegetables and dumplings to cook in the pot. aside from the specialty spots, there is also a small noodle place just around the corner from our school that serves huge bowls of noodles for the equivalent of about 50 to 75 cents -- the great food and bargain prices are turning it into a favorite for me.
the sights to see here are great as well. on saturday we went to changcheng, or the great wall. the view is, of course, breathtaking. you really can't fathom how huge the wall really is, even when you're standing on it. it was a little cold, but it was really sunny so it made for great views and a nice trek up to the wall.
last saturday, a day after we got here, i also went with some friends to beijing 798, which is beijing's super-hip modern art district. they have tons and tons of galleries along a long road that makes up a small neighborhood of art and artists. the biggest and best in the area that we visited was UCCA, or ullens center for contemporary art. they had work by some of the most famous chinese modern artists right now, and their work was absolutely amazing. it was really interesting to note the strong connection between france and china in modern art. a lot of china's modern art is shown in galleries in paris, and so there was a fair amount of french infused into the modern art timeline that we looked at. i adore paris and french, so it was a cool connection to see. we went into one gallery of work by the gao brothers, two brothers well-known for their photography. their work was incredible. what was even more incredible, though, was having the older brother invite us to his office/bigger studio across the street. while members of the french and chinese elite sauntered around the office looking at which pieces to buy, we gawked at all the amazing artwork. needless to say, we felt pretty damn cool walking out of there.
to sum it up, beijing's an interesting place. it's crowded, it's polluted, it's loud, and people spit everywhere. and so far, it's great.
this is my first time back in asia since i moved back to connecticut from hong kong when i was 11, so i'm really excited to revisit places i went as a child, but also experience a lot more of china and asia in general than i did when i lived around here.
first things first: i got here december 27th in the afternoon, and took the bus with everyone else on the CET beijing j-term program (mostly midd kids) to our school in the xizhimen district, which is really close to the beijing zoo. it's a nice school -- small, but convenient and i like the fujin, or neighborhood, that it's in.
i got sick almost immediately after getting here -- it seems to happen everywhere i go. i had what seemed like the flu for a couple of days which was awful, especially since i couldn't celebrate new years here, but luckily i got well pretty quickly. still have the beijing cough, though -- that never seems to disappear once you get it, thanks to the terrible air quality. i'm just hoping my lungs survive until i get home.
everyone here has a chinese roommate, and i adore mine. she's young (only 18), a freshman in college, loves garfield and is very talkative and bubbly. she's also incredibly caring, as it seems all of the chinese roommates are -- she took such good care of me when i was sick, always watches out for me when we're walking along a busy street, that kind of thing. it's strange because she's the same age as my younger sister, but she's also motherly at the same time.
it's interesting to discuss how americans and chinese both agree and differ on certain issues with her. the other day we were talking about how zhongguo de nianqing ren (young chinese people) view homosexuality these days: she said that the chinese are gradually adopting a more liberal view, which is good to hear. we also talked about relationships, as they are generally viewed a lot more seriously here than in the states. casual dating/hooking up for the most part doesn't really exist; if you're with someone, it's definitely a serious thing.
the food here is delicious! this weekend i ate incredibly well -- it was marvelous. on friday i went with some friends and their roommates to a xinjiang style restaurant. xinjiang is an area of china that is really close to kazakhstan, pakistan (and i think india too), so the food reflects a lot of that influence. we ate a lot of lamb, yogurt, and sesame naan bread, along with a thick noodle dish and some other dishes. it was amazing. on saturday, two of my friends and i went to beijing's most famous peking duck restaurant, quanjude. between the three of us, we ordered one duck, which they sliced for us to roll into pancakes with scallions and plum sauce. it's hands down the richest meat i've ever had, and it is also arguably the most delicious. on sunday i went with a friend to meet up with two midd kids who were studying in hangzhou last semester and had hot pot, or mala tang. for hot pot, they give you a pot with fire under it to heat the food you put into it -- essentially the chinese version of fondue. we chose a curry broth for our base, and ordered tofu, vegetables and dumplings to cook in the pot. aside from the specialty spots, there is also a small noodle place just around the corner from our school that serves huge bowls of noodles for the equivalent of about 50 to 75 cents -- the great food and bargain prices are turning it into a favorite for me.
the sights to see here are great as well. on saturday we went to changcheng, or the great wall. the view is, of course, breathtaking. you really can't fathom how huge the wall really is, even when you're standing on it. it was a little cold, but it was really sunny so it made for great views and a nice trek up to the wall.
last saturday, a day after we got here, i also went with some friends to beijing 798, which is beijing's super-hip modern art district. they have tons and tons of galleries along a long road that makes up a small neighborhood of art and artists. the biggest and best in the area that we visited was UCCA, or ullens center for contemporary art. they had work by some of the most famous chinese modern artists right now, and their work was absolutely amazing. it was really interesting to note the strong connection between france and china in modern art. a lot of china's modern art is shown in galleries in paris, and so there was a fair amount of french infused into the modern art timeline that we looked at. i adore paris and french, so it was a cool connection to see. we went into one gallery of work by the gao brothers, two brothers well-known for their photography. their work was incredible. what was even more incredible, though, was having the older brother invite us to his office/bigger studio across the street. while members of the french and chinese elite sauntered around the office looking at which pieces to buy, we gawked at all the amazing artwork. needless to say, we felt pretty damn cool walking out of there.
to sum it up, beijing's an interesting place. it's crowded, it's polluted, it's loud, and people spit everywhere. and so far, it's great.
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